The Glebe in the USA 2013 - Memphis - Sun Studios

Still heading for Memphis

Here's a collage of I-75 trucks I meant to put up on the last post.

It's Thursday morning on the 5th of December somewhere near Birmingham, Alabama.

Dawn is almost breaking as I head the last 30 or so miles towards the city. It's busy enough as I head through the city, but I'm getting cracking views of it's outline and the skyscrapers. I daren't take any pictures, there might just be a camera on me. I'm looking for highway 78 which will take me all the way to Memphis. My mind must have been elsewhere because ten miles further along the I-20 I realize I've gone passed it. No problem I think since the road's gone of at roughly 45 degrees, I can cut across country. Ha Ha who's the idiot again. After getting another ten miles into the country thinking I'm heading the right way I end up at a fairly remote garage where the cashier's working on her nails. When I ask the way to Jasper, she sends me in the back to talk to the boss, cause she doesn't know. He's a big fella and with two other guys he's working on a pick up. He say's "well you can get to Jasper from here, but if you don't know these country roads, I'd suggest you go back to Birmingham, there are road junctions with no signposts heading in all directions". I took his advice. (I also since learned that the Black Warrior River was between me and Jasper, and If I'd missed finding a crossing I'd have been in deep trouble)
So I'm back on the I-20 and I'm looking for Arkadelphia road.
It's so straight forward I don't know how I missed it. I also learned later that an upgrade had been finished recently to access it from the I-65 North, it's a pity I didn't know that earlier.
I'm soon passing Jasper albeit almost two hours after I should have. It's a strange thing, but of all the Interstates and major routes, this one from Birmingham to Memphis is the quietest.
Traffic does pick up as I approach Tupelo with large hoardings inviting you to 'Visit Elvis's Birthplace' .
If I'd not gone wrong earlier I could probably have taken a break in Tupelo, as it was, time was getting on and I wanted to make Memphis before it got too late to do anything.
So continuing on I passed signs for New Albany, Holly Springs National Forest and Wall Doxey State Park. Driving here along Highway 68 is a pleasure and it's beautiful looking countryside.
Now I'm entering Memphis and I'm looking for Airways Blvd. Of course I miss it !. I end up going too far into the city and having to double back along Union Avenue. I soon found my digs on N.Willetts Street.

 (I was lucky to find it as I got lost later by the confusing layout of streets. Take Jefferson Ave and Court Ave for example. They are not continuous and one part of either can be separated by up to five or six streets, and not necessarily in line. So I can be on Court Ave where I want to be and there's no turn for N.Willets Street, I'm on the wrong section of Court Avenue. It dawned on me on Friday after a mystery tour of the area)
My host Ryan is in and makes me welcome, shows me around the apartment and generally gives me directions around the city and printing me a map. I get a quick shower and head out.
I'm heading to my top of the list, number one, ultimate high spot of my whole trip..............I'm going to Sun Studios . (Back in 1956 as a 13 year old, my cousins, pals and the whole school couldn't get enough of this, exciting new sound, the music revolution has begun, Elvis Presley was on everyone's lips).
This shouldn't be hard to find, Ryan tells me that I head along Union Avenue until I see Marshall Avenue going off to the right at a 45 degree angle.

I find it no problem, I'd seen a big guitar back at the junction.

After parking up on Monroe Avenue I make my way back to Marshall Avenue where I spot Heartbreak Hotel. The Ben M. Hogan isn't the golfer but a Tennessee road builder.

I'm soon back on the corner of Union.

There's a guy waiting for someone to come along and take his picture. That's handy as he can take mine in return. He's just done the tour and he's a Dutchman, says he can now go back to Holland a happy man. 

I'll go in once I've taken what I can outside.

Now I'm inside I find I'm in a cafe and souvenir shop of Aladdin's cave proportions. I'm told that the tour will start in around fifteen minutes and to have a look around.

A Kindle Selfie !

Sorry guys, I forgot your names.

No matter how I position myself, the famous "Million Dollar Quartet" picture always has a bright reflection on it. I'm told that everyone has the same problem and to accept the fact that it's the Big 'O', Roy Orbison

Well !, Why not......hiya Roy.

I'm not sure if the Juke Box is a working model, I should have asked.

Though the records are mostly the well known artists, there are some cracking lesser known ones such as Ubangi Stomp by Warren Smith.

After scraping a living, It must have been an amazing time for these early rockers to suddenly find they had no more money worries.

Carl, Jerry Lee, Roy and Johnny

In 1986, four original Sun recording artists got back together here to record 

Class of 55-Memphis Rock and Roll Homecoming. 
My copy's on the way. !

The above image mentions genius, well one things for sure he changed the music scene for ever.

My one regret of my visit to Memphis is that I only paid one visit to this place.

Perhaps I'm destined to return.

There's a wall full of originals, many signed by the artiste.

Elvis's 1955 R.C.A contract. I should have visited Studio 'B' back in Nashville.

The 'Colonel' takes charge of the contract cheque.

Elvis's school diploma

Though Howlin Wolf's Smokestack Lightning was out around the same time as Elvis was starting, I never became aware of him until I was with H.M. Forces over in Germany in the 60's. Then he was never off the radio.

Memorabilia, posters and pictures fill the walls.

There isn't the time to look at it all.

Now it's time for our tour to begin. We're taken through the back.

Our tour guide is Lahna, she introduces herself and explains how the tour will be conducted.

(After the tour I talk to Lahna and find out she herself is a recording artiste as one half of Deering and Down. She has one very listen-able voice. Lahna, I love your mellifluous tones !) 

We're in the studio back room where Sam Phillips is still in charge.

Incidentally he was born 91 years ago today, January the 5th. He died in 2003.

Lahna begins to tell us the history of Sam Philips, Sun Studios and the singers he started on the road to fame. She tells the story of Elvis's first recording and how on the 18th of July 1953 he walked in here to pay for a recording. He wanted to hear how he sounded and gave the record 'My Happiness' to his mother as a belated birthday present. 

  

   

There's more valuable memorabilia and museum items behind the glass.
Lahna tells us the story of Johnny Cash wanting to record gospel songs and Sam telling him to go out and "Sin a bit then come back", he'd had it up to his neck with gospel songs

Widely regarded as the first Rock and Roll song, Lahna tells us the story of Rocket 88 as it plays through the sound system.

Elvis in the 8th grade on the programme as the 'Guitarist'.

The counterfeiters reproduce this programme, give it some rigorous treatment and then sell it as an original for up to $2000 dollars.

Here's a thing, not far from Memphis is Little Rock, Arkansas the beginning of the civil rights in schools, while here Sam was already heavily involved in black music.

Sam's partner Marion. It was Marion who persuaded Sam that Elvis should be called in to the studio, she saw his potential. 

The label says it !

We're enthralled by the 'Million Dollar Quartet' story. Sam decided to keep the tape running during this jam session. The whole one hour eight minute section makes good listening on Youtube. 
I remember Whispering Bob Harris enthusing about this being released in the early 80's.
My copy of this is on it's way too ! I'm becoming a fifties throwback.

Another look at the museum pieces. 

Now we make our way down to the actual recording room. 

Here, Lahna is in her element as she invites us to feel the vibes.

I took a very short bit of video.

youtube

There was something magical going on here ! 

We're invited to stand on the original black marks where the artistes stood. (Call me a sceptic, but I think they must touch these up occasionally)

Now we can have our pictures taken. Who's the immortal now ?

'Aint that some smile !

The tour is now over, but we can stay for a while longer to take pictures and get a feel for this shrine of Rock and Roll.

There's another picture of the Million Dollar Quartet on the wall.

This picture is iconic, but it's a cropped photo. There's a whole other story of who's missing from the picture.

Below is a copy of the picture freely available on the internet.

Image by gawkerassets.com/

The girl in the picture is Marilyn Evans who was dating Elvis at the time. 

Here's a Guardian Newspaper Item of how she was tracked down in 2008.

A picture of Roy brings back memories of his recording of Ooby Dooby recorded here.

Not everyone's favourite Big 'O' track, but the one that got him started.

  

This is the letter that Marion Keisker MacInnes wrote to her son David after the legendary jam session.

I've hopefully made it readable below.

Marilyn did eventually split up with Sam and at the age of forty plus she'd be a captain in the U.S. Air Force.

One notable occasion would be when Captain Marion (Keisker) MacInnes was stationed in Germany. Elvis said to her, 'I don't know whether to kiss you or salute!' She replied, 'In that order'. She was reprimanded by an army captain for over-familiarity with a noncom. Elvis defended her and said, ..' we wouldn't be having a press conference if it weren't for this lady'. 

I take one last look around before heading to buy the T.Shirt(s) and other stuff.

This has been an absolutely brilliant afternoon.

Thank you Lahna, you were a great guide. 

If there's a Rock and Roll heaven I've just had a preview.

Graceland next stop.

The Glebe in the USA 2013 - Florida

It's the last day of November and I'm leaving Nashville. My hire car's been going well round the city, today I should get to use the cruise control. I checked out the route and distance before I left home, and already decided I didn't fancy 700 miles and a twelve hour drive all in one go.(The route finder website says 10 hours, but it doesn't take delays and fuel and food stops into account).

 I picked a small town in Georgia I'd maybe stop overnight at. It's called Vienna and it looks quite a small town on street view. 

I take this picture as I leave my basement for the last time. I've had a nice bowl of Fruit and Maple oats with a couple of packets of Sun Pat raisins to get me going. There's a frost on the ground, but I'm heading for warmer climes. I need to head out towards the city to pick up Interstate 24. I should have no problem finding it this time since I used it to get to Woodlawns. It's not long before I'm on I-24, and I'm turning on the cruise control. Tennessee's speed limit is 70 mph, so I'll set it at 76. Driving long distances in America is so much more pleasurable than on Britain's motorway network. Often four lanes, quite wide, undertake or overtake (though some states are trying to get slower traffic to keep to the right lane) and very rarely does anyone speed. (Most states allow 10% over the limit).

I need to stay on the I-24 till I reach Chattanooga. Remember Glen Miller's Chattanooga Choo Choo

I've travelled around seventy five miles when I need to pull of for moment. I'll get petrol (gas) when I'm stopped. It's junction 127 on the interstate junction with highway 50. After fuelling up and using the loo, I see sizzling bacon, eggs, hash browns and other tempting food near the cashier. This is a Stuckeys, famous for Pecan Log Rolls, but now well into fast food at garages. I indulged in a nice big bacon sandwich.

(You know when an interstate is getting close to a big city or town about thirty miles from it, because the roadside ads and hoardings get bigger and more frequent)

Back on the road nicely fed, I carry on to Chattanooga where I merge onto the I-75. 

this will take me most of the way now. Just south of Chattanooga I see the State Line sign that I'm entering Georgia. There's a Welcome Centre and Rest Area so I pull in for a moment. I've travelled about 150 miles now. The next two hours takes me another 130 miles or so down to Atlanta, Georgia.

Now for some reason that escapes me I stayed on the I-75 to pass through Atlanta when I could have taken the I-285 to bypass the city. The urban interstate speed limit in Georgia drops down to 55 mph while the I-285 would have kept me at 70 mph. I continue on the I-75 getting great views of the city skyline, and the traffic was flowing smoothly enough. 

Just south of the city where the I-285 again merges back on to the I-75, traffic was almost slowing to a halt.

Listening in to Atlanta travel news I learned that I was in a 28 mile tail back due to an accident which had now been cleared but would slow things down for the next two hours. My decision not to take the I-285 bypass had worked in my favour though since part of the tailback was on the I-285.

It still took two hours to get through though. Good job I had plenty snacks to keep me going.

I've been on the road for 6 hours now so I'm well behind. I'll still try to get to Vienna.

Now I'm getting close to Macon where I see my first cotton field. I've done around 320 miles now and I stop to fuel the car I'm told I've about another 40 or 50 miles to go. I'm intrigued by an interesting food items so I get myself a packet of Roasted Garlic Rye Chips ? They were absolutely delicious. Nice, firm, tasty and last a long time.

Image courtesy of  AARoads.Com

Finally I see the sign for Vienna. It's a very quiet road as I head towards the town. I pass more cotton fields and a tractor pulling what looks like a giant mesh basket full of cotton behind him.

I park up in the town, but it looks awfully quiet. The shops and business premises look in good enough condition but I don't see any hotels or guest houses. 

There's an outdoor type store open so I go inside to make inquiries. 

Three ladies inside are quite chatty, but tell me there are no hotels. One then says would a bed and breakfast be OK. "Yes, that'll do me fine", "Well," she says, "It's across the road, but it ain't open yet" "We kin sell you a pair of boots to take back to Scotland though"  

I thanked the ladies and headed back the couple of miles to the Interstate. The had at least told me there was a motel out that way.  I left without purchasing boots!

  

Kindle Pictures

I booked in at the Executive Inn, not quite as upmarket as it sounds. Nice big bed, shower, TV and microwave. I was too tired to go out looking for a restaurant so I got myself a microwaveable Compleats Beef Pot Roast with potatoes carrots and gravy, ready in 90 seconds. (Now there is a strange thing. I'd already looked around Walmart in Nashville at microwaveable meals, and was surprised to see this 90 seconds on lots of packets. How is it we can't cook a meal in 90 seconds in the U.K ?)

Fed and showered I watch a bit of TV and soon drop off to sleep.

I'm up early Sunday morning, it's the first day of December.
Fruit and maple oats again for breakfast and I'm soon on the move again, I've still 300 plus miles till I get to Spring Hill. The milage sign on the I-75 is telling me that Valdosta is 95 miles away.
If you're an Azalea fan you need to get to Valdosta, they grow profusely here and they have an annual Azalea Festival
It's around 6.30 am and the road is very quiet. I'm soon south of Valdosta and crossing the Florida State line. With only one more fuel stop I'm soon passing Lake City, Gainsville and Ocala. (I've usually topped up with fuel every time the gauge reached half way. The most I put in at any one time, the gauge was below a quarter and that was for $34. that converts to around £25. Not as cheap as it was ten years ago, but still a lot cheaper than the U.K)
Lots of signs now coming up for Florida's Turnpike and Orlando. I know after passing that I've about thirty miles till I come off. I'm soon seeing exit 301 Highway 50 (Cortez Boulevard).
It's not long before I'm in the Spring Hill area, but I'm soon lost. My map on the passenger seat shows me I've gone past where I should be. There aren't many places to pull in and ask but I eventually turn on to a quieter road and ask a cyclist for directions. He's helpful and sends me back up the road, but I still can't find Elgin Boulevard. Still on Cortez I pull into the parking lot at Nellie's Restaurant and go into an ice cream kiosk to ask. The two ladies eventually decide I'm looking for ElGin (as in the drink) Boulevard and give me directions. I put them right on the pronunciation if it's named after the town in Scotland but they don't seem convinced. I know where I'm going now. I think what's confused me down here is the scale of things. I'm looking at the street map as if it's a UK city so what I think is a few hundred yards is probably a mile. Half a mile on Deltona Boulevard brings me on to Elgin Boulevard and another four miles gets me to the Sterling Hill gated community. I have trouble with the gate opening (I forget to press the hash button before entering the code), but the man behind me gets me in.    

I've arrived at my Irish/American family's house. They've now been down here two years after moving from Bridgeport, Connecticut. I get a warm welcome from my brother-in-law's Phil's wife Anne. This is the wonderful lady who organised my 60th Birthday Party and Reunion back in 2003.

I've time to get showered and changed before dinner. 

Also arriving for dinner will be Phil's sister Ann and cousin Mary Alice. They too have retired here from New York and Connecticut. 

It was a lovely afternoon, we ate well, Anne is a brilliant cook. We caught up on news, showed photographs and Phil and I watched American Football. I slept well that night.  

I wont go into all the detail of my visit to Florida. I'll caption and explain each of the pictures (most of the pictures were on a previous rushed post anyway), and anything happening of interest.

Suffice to say Phil and Anne made me feel so at home I almost thought I was. When I got married back in 1967 I was warmly welcomed into my wonderful extended family and that remains the case.   

  

Phil and Anne have a colourful garden. The lawn grass is something new to me. It's called St. Augustine and is thick and strong and grows mostly in tropical climates. Needs a strong lawnmower. 

I know I'm in Florida, tomatoes grow outside. 

A neighbour over the road just recently trimmed his cactus, he wants it to grow upwards.

Monday morning and Anne's taking me to look around the town of Dunedin. The road takes us via Port Richey and New Port Richey.

We stop at the Lucky Dill on Highway 19 at Palm Harbor for a sandwich !

It's a colourful and quaint looking town just north-west of Tampa.
The name Dunedin comes from Dùn Èideann, the Scottish Gaelic name for Edinburgh.
I notice there are other Dunedins around the world but I've now visited the two biggest.

The site of the old railway station is now a Museum. 

There's no shortage of food and drink outlets.

A short walk brings us down to the harbour and marina area

I was intrigued by this structure. A closer look showed it to be all 52 states of the union. I had to count them didn't I ! I had to count twice because I missed Louisiana first time around.(It's the middle picture above)

Now we got looking around the marina. I didn't get to see a Manatee. The man in the yacht looked like he hadn't a care in the world as he trailed a fishing line and drank from a beer bottle.

We never got to one of Dunedin's most popular destinations either, though we looked across to it.

It's Honeymoon Island State Park

  Today was a rare dull day in Florida, hence the lack of waterfront pictures.

Back in the town, we look around some of the specialist shop. Very popular was the Celtic Shop of Dunedin

We got talking to a lady with a Scottish accent. Amazingly keeping her accent after nearly 50 years in the states, she was originally from the Glasgow area and her name was Sheila Wilson, by coincidence her uncle used to work at the Portpatrick Radio Station and she'd often visit Portpatrick as a youngster. Her memory was amazing as she recounted visits there. I think she was reluctant to say goodbye. 

Scotland looms big around this part of Florida. There's a Scottish American Society here and they are looking forward to next years trip (above)

We made our way back to Spring Hill visiting Mary Alice and checking out Pat's (another brother in law) house. 

A nice relaxing rest of the day with a sunny forecast for tomorrow.

So, Tuesday dawns and Florida is in sunshine. Later today we'll go to the end of Cortez Blvd. It gets quieter after it crosses highway 19 which becomes the main highway south.

It's a gorgeous day when we head to the coast. It's around a fifteen to twenty minute drive.

Cortez Blvd ends at Hernando County's Bayport Park fishing pier. There's a number of cars there just enjoying looking at the birds (and feeding them) and boats and enjoying the Gulf of Mexico.

I'm not sure what species Florida's land birds are, but they're interesting. Cormorants seem to be a worldwide species.

After a relaxing half hour we head off to the beach along Pine Island (not to be confused with another Florida Pine Island)

I've a feeling that the population of this Census Designated Place of Hernando County has increased since 2000, this is beautiful.

It looks like an ornithologist's dream........... 

I can name this one as a Ruddy Turnstone.

There's quite a variety. The big beaked one is apparently a Black Skimmer 

The water is beautifully clear and we spot a Needlefish.

It's technical name is Strongylura_marina

It may be small, but it has an impressive set of choppers and feeds on smaller fish.

A few people were relaxing and sunbathing, so we followed suit. I still don't know why I didn't go for a paddle. 

After a while we left the beach.................. 

.........................and ended up in here. The Bayport Inn  has a regular free-loading customer out the back. It was either sleeping or away on holiday.............

..................because we couldn't see an alligator anywhere. Here's a link to where you can see a picture of Bayport Inn's 'Gator 

We headed home after a while, we're dining out in company tonight.

The Outback Steakhouse on Commercial Way is where we'll eat.

My company tonight were friends of Phil and Anne, and two visitors from Ireland (Katherine, Bridget's daughter is American, but now lives in Ireland)

There's a great Menu, we start by sharing a Blooming Onion 

I think we all had something different for the main course. I had the Filet with Wild

Mushroom Sauce and finally stuffed myself with the Cheesecake for afters.

I learned my company were all originally from a fairly small area of Ireland around the counties of Cavan, Roscommon and Leitrim. Both Bridget and Una were widows so there was lots of suggestive fun had while we were dining. Maybe I should emigrate !   

The dinner party from the left Matt, Mary, Bridget, Anne, Katherine, Phil, Una and yours truly.
After our meal so generously settled by Bridget, we headed over to Matt and Mary's lovely house for a few drinks. Matt had some excellent whisky and enjoyed showing me his football trophies from his younger days. All too soon the night wore on and we had to head back home to Bainbridge Way.
A really enjoyable night in great company to say farewell to Florida. Thanks guys.

After a really good night's sleep, Anne's making sure I get a good breakfast to set me off.
She's also packed me up with sandwiches. So I'm hitting the road heading for Memphis Tennessee.  

I'm hoping to get as far as Birmingham, Alabama. I'll travel up the I-75 as far as Atlanta, then on to the I-20 via the I-285 to Birmingham. The journey was quite quiet and I made good headway today. 

I found a motel just about 30 miles east of  Birmingham. After a booking in fiasco (too long a story),

I got myself an Applewood Pulled Pork sandwich and chips from a deli in the garage over the road (I tried to get over the road on foot, in the end I had to go back for the car !), then got my head down.  

I'll finish my continued journey to Memphis on the next post.

This is some adventure !