The Glebe in the USA 2013 - Memphis - Graceland

N.B. Here's a footnote to avoid confusing some readers. I am getting feedback that there are some of you out there who think this is a live ongoing post, it isn't !  I travelled out to the U.S.A on the 25th of November 2013 and returned to the U.K on the 11th of December 2013. It's just taking me a while to upload these posts. I apologise if I've confused you.
   
Thursday Night

After my drive up from Birmingham and visit to Sun Studios I'm tired and hungry. I haven't had anything since after my shower when I had a small microwave chicken and rice dish. Ryan tells me that just around the corner on Madison is a Cashsaver where hot food is served, or a pizza restaurant close by. I didn't fancy going to a restaurant so opted for Cashsaver. (I spent a few dollars in there over the weekend.).
Some of the food looked a bit too cajun and spicy for my liking but I opted for a meat pie (I think it may have been a  Natchitoches) and hot potato salad. I soon dashed back to my digs and got stuck in, it was delicious. I thought by the size of the portions I wouldn't be able to finish it, but it was too tasty not to.
After a short while on my Kindle and watching TV I was ready for bed. Not a great weather forecast for Friday, all sorts of weird cold weather moving in.

Friday Morning

A very comfortable and good night sleep I'm up eating cooked oats and fruit with coffee. 

I say cheerio to Ryan, he may not be here when I get back. He's off on a family visit, flying up to Chicago assuming the weather doesn't cause his flight to be cancelled.

I've got the directions to Graceland so I'm off.

There's heavy sleet as I drive down Dr Martin Luther King Jnr Express-way, but I'm soon turning off the ramp onto Elvis Presley Boulevard.

After fuelling up I soon find Graceland and pay my $10 at the parking kiosk.

 There's very few cars here at the moment.

It's a very cold rain and leaves are already developing icicles.

(On the TV, the weather forecasters were talking of ice storms, so I guess this may be part of that weather system)

I make a quick dash to get under the tarpaulin. There are outdoor exhibits, but it really is lashing down.

Inside Graceland Reception the queueing posts and tape aren't needed at the moment.

A visit to the gents gets me mischievous enough to snap my reflections.

After buying my ticket I head out the front. 

Graceland itself is on the other-side of Elvis Presley Boulevard, and although it's only a short distance visitors must take the minibus across. These run regularly every few minutes so there's no waiting.

Once in the minibus we're all given a headset and console for the audio guide and narration to the house. It's an easy enough piece of equipment to operate and we're told we can pause it any-time we wish.

  

My best picture of the house front from a wet minibus.

There are guides and security strategically placed all throughout the house, and we're soon heading through the front door.

I switch on the audio and listen. A deep baritone voice begins to explain the self guided tour and where we start. I learn during the tour that the narrator is Lance Legault who played Colonel Decker in the A Team. He was a friend of Elvis and appeared in three of his films. He passed away September 2012. I guess at some point they'll have to update the audio with a new commentator.

  

The Living Room
I could get really comfortable in here !

So as I'm looking and listening to the commentary, the same folk on the bus as me are already heading off following the direction instructions coming over the headset. As the day and my tour goes on there are people passing me intent on keeping up with the narration. Why come to a place like Graceland if you haven't the time to press the pause button ?

(It would take me a month of Sundays to upload all the pictures I took in Graceland so I've been selective with what's on this post)

Vernon's bedroom.

These first four rooms are all off the main hallway. It was Priscilla who opened the house to tours in 1982.   

The Dining Room

I'm regularly pausing the commentary to closely study the rooms. As well as Lance giving out historical facts, as the tour goes on I hear recordings by Priscilla, Lisa Marie and Elvis himself. 

The Presley Silver Cabinet

 A crystal chandelier and more silver.

I get my photograph taken with Priscilla and Lisa Marie.

The plush carpeted stairs to the second floor are cordoned off. The stairs are only accessible to close family. However there is a webpage which declare it's pictures to be genuine. It's here at Linky Dinky.
There's also a new book due to be published sometime in 2014 by the last love of his life and fiance Ginger Alden. Elvis and Ginger will set the record straight she says. 

The Kitchen

Everything in here is original. The appliances and dishes are those used by Elvis himself.

There's no shortage of mirrors in Graceland so as I head downstairs I take a couple of 'Selfies'

The stairs lead to the T.V room. 

Elvis was copying Lyndon B. Johnson with the three T.V sets. He'd heard that the president liked to see what was on the three news networks at the same time.  

If it isn't mirrors there's always something else reflective !

The Pool Room

The lights shades are stained glass. I love the look of this room, I'll bet there are a few hardcore fans who will have copied it.

Now, it's back upstairs to the Jungle Room.

For a panoramic 360° view visit the Jungle Room Page on Elvis.Com

The Jungle Room

With green shag carpet on both the floor and the ceiling, Elvis recorded the album "From Elvis Presley Boulevard, Memphis, Tennessee" in this room.

Now the audio directs me outside.............

.............and into Vernon Presley's office. 

There seems to be quite a few painted canvases of Elvis in here. I wonder how many portraits there are of him throughout the world.

Outhouse once used as a firing range.

Smokehouse and paddock............

............leading to

The Trophy Room

The next seven or so images and collages were all taken in the trophy room.

I must have spent at least an hour in this one area alone. I was just fascinated by all the platinum and gold adorning the walls. I had to read and view so many of the exhibits. 

There may seem to be very few people around, but by this time a few coach tours had arrived and as often as not I waited till they passed by before taking pictures.

Back outside I now headed towards the Racqetball Building, I thought I'd seen all the gold and platinum. 

Black and white umbrellas were freely available for use between buildings which was a boon since the rain and sometimes sleet poured down relentlessly.

I sneak in another picture of myself. I'm the far side of the pinball machines !

On the morning of the day of his death he'd been playing the piano above.

Now I head down the steps into what was the racquetball court.

 Here there's more gold and platinum discs as well as some of his glitzy suits.

There's a T.V playing some of his concerts and interviews.

I took a partial panorama in here, but after seeing some of those already uploaded I decided I couldn't compete. Here's an amazing 360° view from Jason Shivers 

Back outside again I couldn't get in any decent position to get the swimming pool. (I was holding the brolly to try and keep my camera dry while trying to take pictures, almost impossible), so this is me using artistic licence by fiddling with a couple of pictures.

Now I'm moving on to the Meditation Garden.

After Elvis' death on August 16, 1977 security issues (I seem to remember that someone had been attempting to steal Elvis's remains) at Forest Hill Cemetery where he was originally buried led to his reburial here on October 2nd, 1977. The large marble monument also came from the Presley family plot at Forest Hill. 

This may come as a surprise to some folk, but Elvis was a twin. His brother was stillborn 35 minutes before he himself was born. This stone is in memory of Jesse Garon Presley.

It's beautifully laid out.

 I didn't take the photograph of the lady getting soaking wet with her eyes closed and obviously transported to a higher plateau. I must admit to feeling vibes myself. 

 An eternal flame burns in a hexagonal glass shade at the head of Elvis's headstone.

 Elvis' mother Gladys was reburied here around the same time as Elvis himself.

Elvis' father Vernon was buried here in 1979.

 His grandmother Minnie Mae Presley was reburied in 1980.

I've been here a few hours now and decide I'd better get moving so I catch a minibus back to the otherside.

I'm going to take a look in at the Tupelo exhibition.

There's a lot of stuff detailing his schooldays.

There's a twenty minute video where a ghostly girl takes a visitor around Elvis's old haunts.

There's lots of old and original posters.............

.....................and there's a timeline.

(This is just about readable if opened in a new tab and magnified)

A door leads off the Tupelo exhibition into the gift shop where I make a few purchases.

Now I'm in a bit of a dilemma  ............my ticket has tear off sections for Airplanes (I did get a quick glimpse of the Lisa Marie on my way in) , Car Museum, Elvis Hawaii, 68 Special and Sincerely Elvis. 

There's barely an hour left till closing and the weather is decidedly getting worse.

A news TV Channel is reporting ice problems on the Interstates and major routes............  

.............reluctantly I decide I'd better get back. I don't fancy writing off my hire car. I never even found out if my ticket stubs could be used on another day ?

Back towards the car the icicles are already getting bigger and my back windscreen's already half frozen. 

After defrosting the car I'm soon back down the street and back onto the Expressway and the Interstate. This was probably the worst I had it on any of America's roads during my trip. Half the problem was the amount of heavy vehicles throwing up whatever had been laid on the roads to counteract the ice. Once I turned off the ramp onto Union Avenue I was OK, but that was the closest I'd come to feeling a little apprehensive. Later on the TV news I saw that a lorry had skidded and lost it's load of grain just north of where I'd turned off so maybe I was lucky to come off when I did.

Back at North Willetts Street I'm soon warming up a nice Roasted Red Pepper Chicken Breast meal.  I don't remember the label, but if Sainsbury or Aldi sold it, it would be in my freezer. Very tasty ! 

I follow the chicken with this delicious (what else could it be here in Tennessee), Blueberry Pie.

So, time to get wrapped up and head out for a walk. The woolly hat and gloves I bought in Nashville are getting plenty of use.

I should have taken a picture earlier of this bush, as I left in the morning the ice was just forming.

Icicles are now forming on everything.

Christmas is approaching.

Although it's a collage above, the size of the top advertising hoarding is roughly correctly proportionate in size to the pictures below. The Scoop the Poop people certainly want to get their message out.

  

A friendly reveller gets a picture of me outside the Minglewood Plaza. I very nearly gatecrashed a private 80's themed party. 

Had I been dressed differently I think they may have allowed me to stay.    

No worries though, once I got over onto Madison Avenue I wandered into the Lamplighter Lounge and a refreshing Budweiser. It was very quiet with only a couple of guys playing pool and the barman. Apparently they have some great music and they do get busy later in the evening. Nine at night is early in Memphis.
My pictures didn't come out, but it's a cosy kind of pub. I don't know why I didn't go back.
I also learned from the barman that I could have had a drink in the Minglewood Plaza at the Oasis Hookah Lounge. After learning from him it's a $6 dollar a year smoking club (you join at the door), I'm glad I didn't. I wonder what the smoking laws are in America ?

Back outside it's very cold.
I'm used to ice living in Scotland, but it's the strange way it seems to envelope the plants that's different.

The images seem quite magical to me.

Over at the Interstate, people have been heeding the weather forecast, there's hardly anything moving. I've walked about three miles tonight. Time for bed.

I'll be heading to downtown Memphis tomorrow.

It's been another full day in the frozen waste of Tennessee !

The Glebe in the USA 2013 - Memphis - Sun Studios

Still heading for Memphis

Here's a collage of I-75 trucks I meant to put up on the last post.

It's Thursday morning on the 5th of December somewhere near Birmingham, Alabama.

Dawn is almost breaking as I head the last 30 or so miles towards the city. It's busy enough as I head through the city, but I'm getting cracking views of it's outline and the skyscrapers. I daren't take any pictures, there might just be a camera on me. I'm looking for highway 78 which will take me all the way to Memphis. My mind must have been elsewhere because ten miles further along the I-20 I realize I've gone passed it. No problem I think since the road's gone of at roughly 45 degrees, I can cut across country. Ha Ha who's the idiot again. After getting another ten miles into the country thinking I'm heading the right way I end up at a fairly remote garage where the cashier's working on her nails. When I ask the way to Jasper, she sends me in the back to talk to the boss, cause she doesn't know. He's a big fella and with two other guys he's working on a pick up. He say's "well you can get to Jasper from here, but if you don't know these country roads, I'd suggest you go back to Birmingham, there are road junctions with no signposts heading in all directions". I took his advice. (I also since learned that the Black Warrior River was between me and Jasper, and If I'd missed finding a crossing I'd have been in deep trouble)
So I'm back on the I-20 and I'm looking for Arkadelphia road.
It's so straight forward I don't know how I missed it. I also learned later that an upgrade had been finished recently to access it from the I-65 North, it's a pity I didn't know that earlier.
I'm soon passing Jasper albeit almost two hours after I should have. It's a strange thing, but of all the Interstates and major routes, this one from Birmingham to Memphis is the quietest.
Traffic does pick up as I approach Tupelo with large hoardings inviting you to 'Visit Elvis's Birthplace' .
If I'd not gone wrong earlier I could probably have taken a break in Tupelo, as it was, time was getting on and I wanted to make Memphis before it got too late to do anything.
So continuing on I passed signs for New Albany, Holly Springs National Forest and Wall Doxey State Park. Driving here along Highway 68 is a pleasure and it's beautiful looking countryside.
Now I'm entering Memphis and I'm looking for Airways Blvd. Of course I miss it !. I end up going too far into the city and having to double back along Union Avenue. I soon found my digs on N.Willetts Street.

 (I was lucky to find it as I got lost later by the confusing layout of streets. Take Jefferson Ave and Court Ave for example. They are not continuous and one part of either can be separated by up to five or six streets, and not necessarily in line. So I can be on Court Ave where I want to be and there's no turn for N.Willets Street, I'm on the wrong section of Court Avenue. It dawned on me on Friday after a mystery tour of the area)
My host Ryan is in and makes me welcome, shows me around the apartment and generally gives me directions around the city and printing me a map. I get a quick shower and head out.
I'm heading to my top of the list, number one, ultimate high spot of my whole trip..............I'm going to Sun Studios . (Back in 1956 as a 13 year old, my cousins, pals and the whole school couldn't get enough of this, exciting new sound, the music revolution has begun, Elvis Presley was on everyone's lips).
This shouldn't be hard to find, Ryan tells me that I head along Union Avenue until I see Marshall Avenue going off to the right at a 45 degree angle.

I find it no problem, I'd seen a big guitar back at the junction.

After parking up on Monroe Avenue I make my way back to Marshall Avenue where I spot Heartbreak Hotel. The Ben M. Hogan isn't the golfer but a Tennessee road builder.

I'm soon back on the corner of Union.

There's a guy waiting for someone to come along and take his picture. That's handy as he can take mine in return. He's just done the tour and he's a Dutchman, says he can now go back to Holland a happy man. 

I'll go in once I've taken what I can outside.

Now I'm inside I find I'm in a cafe and souvenir shop of Aladdin's cave proportions. I'm told that the tour will start in around fifteen minutes and to have a look around.

A Kindle Selfie !

Sorry guys, I forgot your names.

No matter how I position myself, the famous "Million Dollar Quartet" picture always has a bright reflection on it. I'm told that everyone has the same problem and to accept the fact that it's the Big 'O', Roy Orbison

Well !, Why not......hiya Roy.

I'm not sure if the Juke Box is a working model, I should have asked.

Though the records are mostly the well known artists, there are some cracking lesser known ones such as Ubangi Stomp by Warren Smith.

After scraping a living, It must have been an amazing time for these early rockers to suddenly find they had no more money worries.

Carl, Jerry Lee, Roy and Johnny

In 1986, four original Sun recording artists got back together here to record 

Class of 55-Memphis Rock and Roll Homecoming. 
My copy's on the way. !

The above image mentions genius, well one things for sure he changed the music scene for ever.

My one regret of my visit to Memphis is that I only paid one visit to this place.

Perhaps I'm destined to return.

There's a wall full of originals, many signed by the artiste.

Elvis's 1955 R.C.A contract. I should have visited Studio 'B' back in Nashville.

The 'Colonel' takes charge of the contract cheque.

Elvis's school diploma

Though Howlin Wolf's Smokestack Lightning was out around the same time as Elvis was starting, I never became aware of him until I was with H.M. Forces over in Germany in the 60's. Then he was never off the radio.

Memorabilia, posters and pictures fill the walls.

There isn't the time to look at it all.

Now it's time for our tour to begin. We're taken through the back.

Our tour guide is Lahna, she introduces herself and explains how the tour will be conducted.

(After the tour I talk to Lahna and find out she herself is a recording artiste as one half of Deering and Down. She has one very listen-able voice. Lahna, I love your mellifluous tones !) 

We're in the studio back room where Sam Phillips is still in charge.

Incidentally he was born 91 years ago today, January the 5th. He died in 2003.

Lahna begins to tell us the history of Sam Philips, Sun Studios and the singers he started on the road to fame. She tells the story of Elvis's first recording and how on the 18th of July 1953 he walked in here to pay for a recording. He wanted to hear how he sounded and gave the record 'My Happiness' to his mother as a belated birthday present. 

  

   

There's more valuable memorabilia and museum items behind the glass.
Lahna tells us the story of Johnny Cash wanting to record gospel songs and Sam telling him to go out and "Sin a bit then come back", he'd had it up to his neck with gospel songs

Widely regarded as the first Rock and Roll song, Lahna tells us the story of Rocket 88 as it plays through the sound system.

Elvis in the 8th grade on the programme as the 'Guitarist'.

The counterfeiters reproduce this programme, give it some rigorous treatment and then sell it as an original for up to $2000 dollars.

Here's a thing, not far from Memphis is Little Rock, Arkansas the beginning of the civil rights in schools, while here Sam was already heavily involved in black music.

Sam's partner Marion. It was Marion who persuaded Sam that Elvis should be called in to the studio, she saw his potential. 

The label says it !

We're enthralled by the 'Million Dollar Quartet' story. Sam decided to keep the tape running during this jam session. The whole one hour eight minute section makes good listening on Youtube. 
I remember Whispering Bob Harris enthusing about this being released in the early 80's.
My copy of this is on it's way too ! I'm becoming a fifties throwback.

Another look at the museum pieces. 

Now we make our way down to the actual recording room. 

Here, Lahna is in her element as she invites us to feel the vibes.

I took a very short bit of video.

youtube

There was something magical going on here ! 

We're invited to stand on the original black marks where the artistes stood. (Call me a sceptic, but I think they must touch these up occasionally)

Now we can have our pictures taken. Who's the immortal now ?

'Aint that some smile !

The tour is now over, but we can stay for a while longer to take pictures and get a feel for this shrine of Rock and Roll.

There's another picture of the Million Dollar Quartet on the wall.

This picture is iconic, but it's a cropped photo. There's a whole other story of who's missing from the picture.

Below is a copy of the picture freely available on the internet.

Image by gawkerassets.com/

The girl in the picture is Marilyn Evans who was dating Elvis at the time. 

Here's a Guardian Newspaper Item of how she was tracked down in 2008.

A picture of Roy brings back memories of his recording of Ooby Dooby recorded here.

Not everyone's favourite Big 'O' track, but the one that got him started.

  

This is the letter that Marion Keisker MacInnes wrote to her son David after the legendary jam session.

I've hopefully made it readable below.

Marilyn did eventually split up with Sam and at the age of forty plus she'd be a captain in the U.S. Air Force.

One notable occasion would be when Captain Marion (Keisker) MacInnes was stationed in Germany. Elvis said to her, 'I don't know whether to kiss you or salute!' She replied, 'In that order'. She was reprimanded by an army captain for over-familiarity with a noncom. Elvis defended her and said, ..' we wouldn't be having a press conference if it weren't for this lady'. 

I take one last look around before heading to buy the T.Shirt(s) and other stuff.

This has been an absolutely brilliant afternoon.

Thank you Lahna, you were a great guide. 

If there's a Rock and Roll heaven I've just had a preview.

Graceland next stop.