The Glebe in the USA 2013 - Memphis - Downtown and Beale Street

Saturday the 7th of December 2013

So, I've got the apartment to myself, Ryan's flown off to Chicago.
I've had an excellent night's sleep and I'm having my oats and fruit while watching News 3 for the weather.
It's going to be a cold day in Memphis while elsewhere in the state there's talk of 'Thundersleet' happening.
Outside there are tree branches along the side-walks snapped off with the weight of ice.
So I'm well wrapped up as I head down Union Avenue to find Beale Street.
Downtown Memphis is very quiet. It also seems easier to navigate than back in the suburbs.

After parking up close to Beale street I'm out in the cold but well wrapped up.
It's around eleven in the morning, but it seems that is still very early here in Memphis. (The freezing weather was probably the main reason I never got to sample the night life of Beale Street. I did get to enjoy live music later in the afternoon though).

I've parked just here by Church Park.

Robert R. Church Sr is often called America's first black millionaire.

His descendants have all figured prominently in the history of the southern states.

  

The bust is his son Robert R. Church Jr who grew up to become a prominent Republican, civil rights leader, and businessman.

Judging by the amount of historic plaques around Memphis it seems they are rightly proud of their heritage.

Beale Street First Baptist.

"Formerly known as Beale Street Baptist, this church is the first brick-constructed, multi-story church in the U.S. built for African Americans. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places. This church is also the first African-American Missionary Baptist Church in the country built by slaves. Newspaper publisher, Ida B. Wells operated her newspaper from this church."

At the start of the pedestrianized stretch of the street it looks deserted.

W.C.Handy the 'Father of the Blues'

I can't pay a visit, there's not much open yet.  

As I said before there are plaques and info boards everywhere.

At the junction with 4th Street  is the police station.

There's a cracking logo on the badge.  Top marks to it's designer.

There were more pages to this notice but I put this one up because it contains the word 'panhandling'.

It's a word I'd heard often but never knew it's real meaning.

Later in the day I was approached by a panhandler, now I know the meaning !

Now I'm getting into the bars, restaurants and entertainment part of the street.

I should have let the lady who offered take my picture with Jerry's car but I was worried she'd run off with my camera. It's not like me to be so suspicious !

While passing the Hard Rock Cafe I was invited in by the woman opening up. I said I might be back for food later. I did come back for a Coors, but no food, I'd already eaten. There was a guy singing I think he was called thatboy Rod, but not my kinda music. I didn't stay long. 

Fake icicles a couple or three pictures ago. Here's some real ones.

This would be a nice spot to relax from partying I guess.

As well as W.C there's high praise in Memphis for Rufus Thomas. I well remember his Walking the Dog and Do the Funky Chicken. I also remember having his daughter Carla's single 'When tomorrow comes' back in the 60's.

Doors are beginning to open. I guess the sign bottom right above gives an inkling to the kind of opening hours of the establishments on the street.

  

There's always an Irish bar isn't there.

O'Sullivan's takes up a whole corner.

"where It's like St Patrick's Day all the year round"

Well, the poet, Brenner, sounds Irish. It seems though that being a Tennessee Squire means he drinks Jack Daniels rather than Jamesons

There's some very sexy advertisements around.

It was on my return in the afternoon that I ventured into Memphis Music and spent ages going through the comprehensive collection of vinyl on offer. I could have stayed hours, but after selecting a handful to purchase I had to move on.

I believe that some of the records will be played at the Vine-L Sunday Sessions at the Vine Cheltenham in the very near future.

I had a look in Mr Handy's Blues Hall later in the day also. 

It's a very atmospheric place, musty smelling like you're going back in time. Tons of old pictures and memorabilia on the walls. It was very dark and the one photograph I took was totally blurred. 

I'm away ahead of myself because these photographs are from after my walk along the Mississippi, I'm just keeping the theme together.

Schwab's was an amazing store and museum. I spent quite a while in here.

There were lots of rare items on display, and also for sale. I made some purchases, but nothing to write home about, all the items I fancied would have cost me a fortune in shipping.

OK, you can now call me Boney Gumbo Dupree, yeah............far out man !

Still on Beale Street I'm heading towards the river. I found out later that the site of the assassination of Dr Martin Luther King wasn't so far away. I should have visited since it's now the location of the National Civil Rights Museum.  It's on my to do list for my next visit. I think I need to spend at least a fortnight in Memphis.

There's a lot of runners looking fit out today. They're all nicely friendly with their 'Hullo's'

We know who this fellow is. It's a  Bronze Elvis Statue  by sculptor Andrea Lugar.

I never expected to see him crying, I wonder if he's singing Crying in the Chapel ?

Now here's a a hungry bird and a well known name.

Now I'm walking into the central business district. There are more people on the tram than I've seen all morning.

I've a feeling that if this was a weekday instead of Saturday these streets would have been busier. Maybe it is the extreme cold that's kept people away, they aren't used to it here.

Now I'm on the mighty Mississippi as it says on the boat. Mud Island River Park where I'd hoped to visit is closed. 

The Lozier family who run these riverboat rides have entertained the likes of  Mother Teresa, Cybill Shepherd, Ringo Star and Al Gore.

I was hoping to walk on the Hernando de Soto Bridge (above), but on asking a passer by I was told there wasn't a walkway across. There's one on the Memphis and Arkansas Bridge one of the next bridges along, but it's inadvisable to walk on since a fatality in 2012. The adjacent Harahan Bridge is due to have a custom built walkway and cycle track with construction beginning this year. Looks like I'm not walking on a bridge today ! 

I'm walking south now. This is the magnificent American Queen.

There's a queue of lorries loading her up at the new Beale Street Landing.

I spend ten minutes talking to a lady guard at the top gangway. She's feeling the cold even though she's got a decent bit of padding. A crew member coming off talks to us about his job, "best job in the world" he says. He's one of the ships engineers. This trip will be a short five day round trip north to St Louis. He tells us that upriver cruises also go to Minneapolis/St Paul or up the Ohio river to Cincinnati and other ports. Downriver cruises go to New Orleans. They also cruise along the Tennessee, Columbia and Snake rivers. He get's lots of time off and enjoys sampling various bourbons. Pity I haven't the time or the money !

      

This boat says Steve Dumey on the bridge, I wouldn't have known if I hadn't looked him up, but this is a mid stream fuelling boat. A close up look at the picture shows the fuelling hoses. First one I've ever seen.

Here's another hungry bird.

I'm now passing through the Tom Lee Memorial Park. 

Here's the History of Tom Lee, truly a hero.

I don't think I'm imagining things but those icicles seem to be getting longer.

The bridge heads over to a large gated community, I guess most American cities have gated estates now, I've noticed they're springing up around the U.K nowadays.

Here's the news channel I've been watching.

Another bird is disappointed with me. If I'd known I'd have brought some seed with me.

Below the bird is another zoomed in view of Hernando de Soto Bridge.

Now I'm heading back towards Beale Street.

Reaching Huling Avenue I spotted this place.

I'm now a little hungry so I'll take a look in the Spaghetti Warehouse.

First opened in Dallas in 1972 there's now a chain of sixteen in seven states.

It's brightly decorated with lots of curiosities. 

I'm glad to sit down. The four dining ladies at the next table (out of shot) had a good laugh at me taking this selfie. I ordered minestrone soup and chicken linguini and a coffee. It was delicious. I'm all for the American way of keeping coffee cups filled at no extra cost too.

I took some more indoor pictures before leaving. The trolley car had quite a few diners in, very novel. 

After leaving if I'd turned south-east I'd have come to the National Civil Rights Museum. 

I was intent on returning to Beale however to soak up some atmosphere.

There's a queue forming at the Orpheum. It was the Grand Opera House from 1890 until it was destroyed by fire in 1923. This is another place on my return visit list.

Sister Act was showing. 

There's stars all over the side-walk around the theatre so I took a few pictures.

I think I became star struck, but my snapping was soon curtailed as the queue grew.

I moved on down Beale Street. 

Before moving on to the Hard Rock Cafe which I mentioned earlier I visited the Blues City Cafe. I was impressed enough that I'd be back the next day to eat. It also seems that the back room is the preferred eating place for the Memphis Police Department. It was piped music during my visit, but the brochure I picked up was advertising rock and roll and rockabilly in the music room.  I'm sure I'll be having that fortnight in Memphis before my seventy fifth birthday !  

I'm still taking pictures as I head back to my car.

I'm wondering about BurpeesSuck.com on the back of a car. It seems to have started as a campaign to get ladies fit, but now might be just a ruse to get you to buy the merchandise. How about that 'No Cruising Zone', that's me scuppered ha ha. 

It was about now I was approached by a 'Panhandler'. After politely telling him to 'Go Away' I continued on my way. Maybe I should have given him a dollar !  

A little diversion on 4th street takes me to the FedExForum, home of the Memphis Grizzlies and the Memphis Tigers basketball teams.

I should have checked to see if Elvis's tears had grown. The icicles certainly have. I've about walked off my three bottles of beer and quite tired myself out, it'll be a quiet night in. The cold weather is set to continue.

Only one more full day before I have to head back to Nashville, it's too soon.

Wigtownshire Ramblers Stranraer - Portpatrick - SUW January 2014

Saturday the 11th January 2014

I don't know if it's another bug I've picked up, but I've been suffering with an upset tummy for a couple of days. Hopefully today's good long walk will help.

We're walking a section of the SUW (Southern Upland Way) from Stranraer to Portpatrick. 

This is a walk we do quite regularly (or the other way round)

January 2010

  January 2011  

Shorty is writing today's report and I'll publish it when I get it. 

Twenty three of us set out from Stranraer on a nice bright crisp morning. This will go up to 24 when another walker joins us at the lighthouse.

We're soon up Gallow's Hill and a view up Loch Ryan and Ailsa Craig. There's a local saying apparently, it's "If you can see Ailsa Craig it's going to rain, if you can't see it it's raining"

A bit of road walking takes us up beyond the old Hillside Piggeries past Greenfield and Little Mark.

There's a view back to Artfield Fell Windfarm. If all those proposed are granted planning permission, all the surrounding hills will be full of turbines too. Too many !

The view across to Cairnryan gives way to a view of Knockquhassan Reservoir.

Here we leave tarmac and take to the moors.

It's a bit squelchy in places, but nowhere near as bad as I'd expected.

There's an occasional stop to let backmarkers catch up and for the distribution of sweets.

Of the bottom two turbines only the right one was turning. On the way home we saw lot's of turbines not moving. I guess it's been too windy for them !

(I'm not anti windfarm, but enough is enough when they need subsidies to keep them generating electricity)

The Waymerks Project

The project is coming to an end so if you got yourself a 'Merk', hang on to it. They're still stocking the 'Kists' till they run out of the stock they have, but will not be minting anymore.

Mulloch Hill

Back on to hard standing at Glenstockadale Several

The red deer sign is new.

It's downhill after this brae

In our first view of the North Channel we see one of the regular ferries crossing between Loch Ryan and Northern Ireland.  

This is the 'Honda Kid' and a donkey.

We've a colourful set of walkers today.

Killantringan Lighthouse comes into view.

It's for sale if any reader is interested. Half a million will get you it.

Galloway and Ayrshire Properties

The hump to the left is where we'll have lunch.

This is what's left of the Craigantlet.

In all my pictures of the wreck, this one show's the most.

Now we'll follow the shore path south.

The lighthouse remains in a rear view for quite a way.

There are still a few ups and downs.

The route takes us down Portavaddie up March Howe and over Ouchtriemakain Moor

The steep descent to Port Kale and Lairds Bay

Lairds Bay.

Once a cable hut  for Electricity to Donaghadee then a coastal interpretation station now disused.

Brixham is in Devon, looks like this fish box has travelled.

From Lairds Bay we round the headland to Port Mora and Sandeel Bay.

While searching for a particular item on Sandeel (Sand Eel) Bay, I came across an interesting publication.

It's Transactions 1919/20 by the Dumfiesshire and Galloway Natural History and Antiquarian Society

Searching further I see there's a whole Set of these publications. Remember the days when you'd spend hours researching in a library..........a click of the mouse is all that's needed now. That's progress, but it probably takes the fun out of the task. 

Portpatrick in sight. I learned today that the mast and hut to the right has been sold and the buyer wants to build a residence on the site. Seems he/she is meeting some opposition.

The last leg down to the harbour.

The Crown hotel was the venue for after walks refreshments. My driver, myself and his other passenger decided we'd sooner catch the earlier bus, so we probably missed out on some excellent fare.

It was a grand walk though.

Back home after tea I couldn't move. An early bed was the refreshment I needed.

Shorty's report will appear here.

Wigtownshire Ramblers – Saturday 11 January 2014 – Stranraer – Portpatrick

Saturday was a beautifully clear and sunny day with a brisk breeze which kept the temperature hovering just above zero.  Twenty three ramblers assembled at the Breastworks car park.  We soon set off across the road and up the Back Rampart.  A good pace was maintained through the town and up the hill towards the new Gallowhill Woods, passing the much improved playing fields and the cemetery as we climbed.  The views back over Stranraer and up the loch towards Ailsa Craig were breath-taking, or maybe that was just the steep slope!

We followed the road past the old piggeries where the small wind turbine rattled alarmingly in the brisk breeze.  From here we followed the Southern Upland Way (SUW) down the road to the Piltanton Burn and over the hill to the Crailloch Burn where the effects of the recent extreme weather were evident in new landslips where the high water had undercut the banks.  From the burn a steady climb took us to Knockquhassen and the reservoir which was full to the lip.  The SUW leaves the road here and follows a narrow path over the bogs and hillocks along the south shore of the loch.  On previous visits we had found this section almost impassable due to deep mud and water but things have now improved considerably and only one short section needed to be by-passed.

When we reached the green field of Mulloch Hill we found the Makar’s Kist with its supply of specially minted medallions or “merks”.  This is one of thirteen kists hidden along the length of the SUW.  Unfortunately the project has finished and no new merks are being minted. The supply is limited and will run out soon.

A short climb took us to the top of Mulloch Hill, the highest point on today’s walk.  There are fine views in all directions; eastwards to the Galloway Hills and westwards to the North Channel and the Irish coast.  Descending the hill we reached a rough track which lead back to the county road through Glenstockadale.  The map makers seemed to have run out of names in this area.  Old maps show two adjacent farms called “Glenstockadale Several” and at least five called “Knock and Maize”.  The latter name probably derives from the Gaelic for rocky and boggy, an excellent description of the area.  Many of the properties have been rebuilt recently and new, less confusing names have been applied.

The route was now mostly downhill and we stepped out briskly down the road to Killantringan lighthouse.  Here we stopped for lunch and took refuge from the cold wind behind a low ridge above the remains of the Craigantlet.  All that was visible of the wreck was a small section of the bow.  This was somewhat further out than we remembered.  All sight of this wreck will soon be lost.

After lunch we followed the path along the cliffs.  There were several steep descents and climbs, especially down the almost vertical steps to Port Kale.  This is also known as Laird’s Bay and was the site of the mainland landing for the first successful underwater telegraph cable to Northern Ireland.  This has now disappeared but the stone huts which housed the equipment still stand, having been used in later years as a visitor centre.  It is now, unfortunately, boarded up.

A short path from Port Kale took us into Port Mora.  The rubbish washed up along the shores is disappointing.  Much of it seems to wash across from the Irish coast but some from much further afield.  One fish box displayed an address in Brixham in South Devon.  

After a final climb alongside Dunskey golf course we reached the old telephone radio mast and the steps down into Portpatrick.  We were welcomed at the Crown Hotel for tea and scones in spite of our windblown and mud spattered appearance.  The sun was rapidly descending towards the Irish coast and the breeze was getting cooler as we waited for the bus back to Stranraer.

Next week’s walk is another 9 mile linear walk, from Wigtown to Newton Stewart.  Meet at the Breastworks Car Park in Stranraer to share transport or at 09:45 in the Riverside Car Park in Newton Stewart to catch the 10:00 bus to Wigtown.  New walkers are always welcome, but please contact the walk leader on 01671 401222 for further details.